Argentina

Greetings to you all.

At Andean Roads Camp

We crossed the border into Argentina which was quite uneventful. A fairly long drive which took us to a place not very far from Buenos Aries. It is a camp that was highly recommended. 

We had a number of jobs to do  and this place seemed the ideal place to get them done. They jobs were things that needed doing but were not urgent. 

The problem with the non urgent matters is they tend to back up until I find that I really wish I had taken care of business. The guy who owns the camp, was able to direct us to people who would sort out our various issues. Of course in the world of overland travel this does not necessarily equate to actually getting them done. 

First let me tell what had to be done. I had known from our journey to the dock at Antwerp that our exhaust needed attention, fumes were finding their way into the van. It was only slight but it was a bit of a problem on a long drive.

Also on the way to Antwerp we suffered an unexplained flat battery. I had the battery tested and could find no fault  so decided not to replace the batteries in case it was unnecessary. Unfortunately when we got the van back in Uruguay it had to be jump started  and my confidence in the batteries was beginning to fade though I was still unsure of their reliability. I had been warned that it would be expensive to replace them in South America.  So still a difficult choice remained. To say hang the expense, or to wait till they posed us an actual problem. It may seem trivial but we also wanted to replace the stolen radio. So that needed doing.

We have a pair of gas cylinders fitted. We were prohibited from having full cylinders on the ship. I tried to research what type of fittings prevail in Uruguay and Argentina. It proved really difficult to reach any conclusion. The van arrived with enough gas to last us 2 or 3 weeks. We tried at a number of places to get our cylinder refilled but no one was able having never seen the type of fitting we had. In Uruguay the common one was  completely different Several agencies tried hard to find a way of filling them but to no avail. We then moved to Argentina where there is  another different standard fitting.  There was a raft of  other little things that needed my attention. The camp was very comfortable and Christian, the owner was most helpful.

The offending gas cylinder

So armed with address,s and directions we set off to get things done!

The first priority was to get the gas refilled. Christian sent us to a man who would fill it  for us. He has adaptors for every kind of cylinder and if he doesn’t have one he will make it. Marvellous!

So we followed the directions to the letter and found no gas company. We went around again, nothing. So we decided to go and get the radio sorted out. We found the radio shop easily enough. We had stopped at several banks on the way to get some money out only to find that the machines were all empty (more on this later). Very frustrating. At the radio shop we discovered just how pricey these things can be. We saw what we thought was the cheapest. Having discovered what it meant in real pounds We realised that it was beyond  our paygrade to decide in a moment. We told the woman that we would come back in the morning. I think we had reckoned we should pray for guidance on the matter.

So, no radio for now. We now had to go and find the exhaust repair man.  It was pretty easy to find him but Even in a conversation entirely in Spanish I found that: ‘I would love to help you. It should be an easy job, but I do not have welding equipment for stainless steel’. Oh bum! This is starting to become quite an unproductive little journey. So we decided to go on and see a man about batteries. On the way we again passed the location where the gas man should be. As we went Ping said I can smell gas on the breeze maybe we should look again. There was no mistaking the smell. So we had a punt around but found nothing  Pings response to all these problems is to say ‘Lets ask someone’ completely overlooking two important factors. 
1. We do not speak Spanish 
2. Men do not ask for directions.

 Casa Gasman!
So it was that we learnt, critically that we were in fact looking for the local florist! 

She jumped out of the van and dived into a plumbing shop. The nice man knew exactly where gas man was located, just in the next street. More helpfully he was able to provide information that had previously been withheld from us. i.e.That gas man's premises not only had nothing to identify it as a gas shop no sign  nothing. Also that it was a private address from which flowers and plants are sold. 

Ah the mysteries of overland travel! We found gas man who stroked his chin  and took our cylinder from us saying he had never seen this type before. He wanted to keep it overnight to see what he could do. So no money, no radio , no gas. I then decided that we should just stop at every workshop that looked as if it could do welding. Each one  said ah no its stainless I don’t have the equipment.  I was going to stop at another workshop, paused outside  but decided that I had lost the fighting spirit. So instead we passed on by and returned to Christian. He said I will call someone and see if they can help. He then gave us directions to a workshop that was able to do the job.

Gustavo doing a great job on our exhaust.

Needless to say we followed the directions to find ,of course, that it was the one we had passed by! Too late today. So we started again in the following morning. We went to the banks  first. It is worth mentioning that all over Uruguay and Argentina we had seen a common site which is quite dramatic. Security vans that bring cash to and from banks are always followed by a small car full of armed men. No kidding! The van pulls up and men with pistols, shotguns and carbines  scatter around. They point their guns in every direction and then signal to the guys in the cash van to come out with the cash. This happens quite routinely. (more on this later.) any how we found that they had done their job and it was easy to get cash now. We went to the radio shop and got our radio. What was really nice was the woman in the shop had found one that was significantly cheaper  and she was happy to have it fitted for us. This was a particular bonus as the thief had damaged the aerial lead and I didn’t think I could fix that. While we waited for it to be fitted we went for a hamburger. It took a little while to prepare and it arrived in front of us as the radio man came to tell us that it was all done.

So we had cash and a radio, as well as a bit of ketchup on my shirt.

We went back to gas man who very regretfully said he could not help us to fill the cylinder I think he tried to sell us some geraniums but my Spanish is not that good. In the end we decided to ditch the cylinder and buy an Argentinean one. So we got directions to the gas depot where we bought a new cylinder. Gas in Argentina is subsidised and is remarkably cheap. Cylinders however are not subsidised and are remarkably expensive. However we now have nearly everything we need and flushed with success we went back to the welding man who did a spiffing job on our exhaust. It is sometimes wise to quit while we are ahead so decided to give our batteries an opportunity to redeem themselves., and not replace them just yet.

The next day we continued on our journey into Buenos Aries.

Pegasus in the foreground and the magnificent ARA Libertad behind

Frigate. ARA Libertad

We had been recommended to park at a car park next to the harbour. We found it easily, and because we arrived  on a Friday afternoon we had the place to ourselves  pretty much for the whole weekend. There was one particular treat in store though. 



Right alongside where we parked  was a beautiful, and I mean beautiful tall ship It was in fact the ‘Frigate ARA Libertad’ It is a working Argentine Republic Armada training ship built in 1953 and still in the very finest fettle. If frigates turn you on, have a look on google.

In this car park  we often had visitors , people passing by who were curious about us. For this reason Ping ordained that she would require our shower to be set up after dark. Now the weather in this part of the world is not quite the same as it can be back home and one feature is that as darkness falls  the wind can get up significantly. And so it was on this occasion I had a container of nice warm water for her ladyships bath scented soap and freshly laundered towels were laid on as she stepped into the shower tent. She then went about her ablutions.

Very nice she thought as she luxuriated in her warm shower, that is all that I shall describe of the scene inside. On  the outside was another matter! The wind was rising ferociously and I was required to stand beside directing the shower  but also had to hold the tent down on the ground.  Which was now in peril of being blown into the harbour. I was getting soaked as I held onto the shower the wind blew the water all over me resulting in complaints that I wasn’t doing my job properly. The fabric case for the shower tent was blown out to sea never to be seen again. And her ladyship grandly stepped out all clean and shiny blissfully unaware of the trauma that I had undergone. She said that was lovely we will do this again tomorrow night. I silently and deferentially tugged my forelocked and stepped back.

Any how we parked there. We had a bit of business to deal with in Buenos Aries the following Monday so we had a long weekend to explore the city. I am not very keen on cities but as they go Buenos Aries is quite fine with a lovely mix of old and new and lots of parks and once again plenty of magnificent statues and memorials.

Amazing cyclists.- Arend Stem and Ina Stem-Portengen

We met in passing a Dutch couple who had been cycling around Argentina and were about to embark for the ferry to Uruguay to continue their touring there. I think they at least planned to visit Brazil as well. We were really just chatting  idly when they told us that one was 72 and the other 73 years old and they had been just  about everywhere on their bikes China and South East Asia. Really remarkable travels!

Stretch Limo

One of many great churches in Buenos Aries

All over the place people spend sunday posting 'Paper grafitti.

We found a very arty street market to stroll around and we took a couple of ‘free walking tours’ which really helped to bring the city to life for us. 






We got our insurance sorted out on the Monday and then went on a tour of the famous and truly wondrous La  Recoleta Cemetery. I think that many people have heard of this place. We had but had no idea really of the wonders within. I am certain that there will be lots of facts online about it but let me try to do what our guide did so adequately which was to really bring the place to life; in a manner of speaking.

First of all it started out as a Catholic cemetery, but once a desparate need was identified for the rich and famous  to be immortalised in the grandest possible fashion. The original bodies were reburied elsewhere and perfunctory memorial plaques were placed around the walls leaving room for the important work of accommodating people who clearly believed that they were too important to succumb to mortality.

                                                                                                                                                 Realising that this was an arrangement based more in wealth than Piety , The Catholic authorities washed their hands of it. So it became newly described as multi denominational.

He  explained that the inscription on the public outside of the gate  is ‘Resting in peace’ but on the opposite side of the arch it, that is to say the residents side it says ‘Waiting for god’ As you walk through the arch you find yourself in what might almost be decribed as a small city made up of narrow streets lined with small, and some not so small magnificent buildings.

High street LaRecoleta

 All of which are private mausoleums. We were shown  some beautiful stained and engraved glass panels some set up in such a way that they illuminated the path to heaven for the occupant in the coffin on open display.

The lady who was buried alive

                                                                      

The dog dropped dead on hearing of his mistress's demise

And of a woman who was interred prematurely having had some kind of seizure that made her look dead, on recovery she managed to open her coffin but was unable to get out of her tomb and It is believed that she died of a heart attack. 




So one way or another  she stayed there. I would have to say that in my opinion she did not have much in the way of a lucky break.


One that I found specially interesting was one of a policeman who had a dreadful reputation for brutal torture of anyone rising against the government and also of shooting indiscriminately at demonstrators, allegedly killing 11 at one gathering! Any way he was murdered by a man who had been a dissident in Russia and had been sentenced to life in a Gulag. He ecscaped and played a role as a revolutionary in various places in South America. He was so appalled over the actions of this cop that he set about Murdering him with a Molatov cocktail burning him to death. The Russian was caught and sent for life in the Argentinean equivalent of a Gulag in Ushuaia. Eventually after a change of government he was released and went of to fight in the Spanish Civil war and eventually died peacefully of old age. 

Our Guides very own Great,great Grandparents

Our guide even showed us the tomb of his own Great great Grandparents  and how the tomb itself was a testament to their own bitter and estranged marriage.

Eva Peron's family tomb

Of course he took us to visit the, rather modest, Douarte family mausoleum where Eva Peron is laid away. The story of Evita and the manner in which she is still revered by half the country and loathed in equal measure by the other half. Of the bizarre way in whihich her body was treated  for many years. And the continuing Peron Legacy which took the most ludicrous turn after his return and subsequent death. All of this has been written in great detail by people much more able and knowledgable than I. however I do recommend you look it up. It makes toe curling reading!

Here lies , finally  Argentinas beloved (or hated) Eva Peron

Any way back to the cemetery. This place is full to bursting with fabulous edifices proclaiming the dead of Argentina's elite.  There are generals and politicians  with names you will recognise as they have streets and parks named after them. Some of the tombs have been designed by famous architects such as the man who built New Yorks Grand Central Station. 

Add caption

Another was designed by the architect who is interred there he did it himself and a more stunningly beautiful and stylish lump of granite than any other.

Our guide ,Fransisco, explained to us that this is still very much a working cemetery with funerals taking place often. This is surprising as it is clearly finite in its capacity. Apparently what happens is that either the families are unwilling to fork out the great sums for maintenance etc. In which case the residents are shifted out to some distant hole in the ground and the tomb is sold on. Or as sometimes happens the family dies out and there is no longer any interest in it. In either case I gather that they are sold off lock stock and barrel for enormous sums. And new residents are popped in to replace them.

This whole affair is really the most extravagant display of defiance of the oldest rule, that you can’t take it with you!

Make no mistake it is easy to dismiss this as being an exercise in more money than sense but it is a place of startling history, beauty, romance and style. It is somewhere I will always treasure having visited.

The next day we had to leave  the city and continue towards The province of Patagonia. 

Road to Pategonia  long and straight

Ping had popped in the GPS co ordinates for our next destination which was meant to be a lovely camp.

The sat nav (a device of which I passionately disapprove) took us up an unmade road for a couple of Kms,  no problem there we have done that before. But when it told us to turn left, crash through a fence and ‘navigate off road’ I got the hint that we had got it wrong. 

Not so Vasco De Gamma on my left. I cant understand what is wrong with the machine . I made the mistake of suggesting  that she may have just possibly put in a wrong number. It seems, so I am informed that this is not the case. As she banged the top of the satnav.

So we went and asked the farmer. Two things were special about this interaction one was that he knew of the location that we were seeking , despite it being 30 km away. And the other was he spoke English and was able to give us quite explicit  directions. The camp turned out to be out of season  a bit run down there was a lot of trees and a huge bird population. This is important because just when you settle down to eat  they get ready for bed. There is an unbelievable racket as they all brush their teeth and put their pyjamas on  and then all crap at the same time just before they go to bed. The output is amazing nothing was spared  a deposit of guano! On top of this there was a distressing number of flies. We did not stay there for very long, and met up with our friends Timo and Sandra at another campsite.

Friendly cops visiting our camp

One cop had rescued this duckling. What a softy!

Another beautiful location to camp

Now I have to bring you back to a couple of things that I said we would speak of later. First of all we had yet another problem with the battery and I decided that we must bite the bullet and replace them both.

So we found ourselves in a large cow town and were directed a battery store. After some effort I found a couple of lads and I asked them if they could oblige even at the very beginning their vaguely surprised reaction to the question made me wonder a bit.

They managed to find the ones we needed and started to discuss the price. My esteemed life partner entered the fray guns blazing! She negotiated a decent discount. However it was necessary for someone to go into town and find a bank with a cash machine that had some money in it. Now you will recall that this is not always the case. I stayed back at the van and supervised a bit as the level of competence was not high. I was starting to really wonder if these guys did actually work here. It took ages for Ping to return I wasn’t so surprised  as everything takes longer than you think on these occasions.

Any how the batteries were fitted and we eagerly awaited her return. When she finally got back she was quaking. She whispered to me in a quaking voice . ‘I had quite a disturbing experience at the bank!  

She said she had just got to the head of the queue and found it had no money, when three large unshaven gentlemen rushed in to the bank lobby shut the doors and stopped anyone coming in or going out. They were armed with shotguns and pistols. Not surprisingly it took Ping a moment to collect herself  she was surprised to see that everyone else in the bank was just carrying on as normal then she realised that these were in fact the security people come to refill the machine. what to  us is so dramatic but to others it is so ordinary.

Anyway she got back to me  with money and set about increasing the size of the discount. By this time it was not just me that was questioning whether these guys should be selling us batteries or if indeed they did work there. We never got to the bottom of it but we did get our batteries and further discount. Keen to make a graceful getaway I started up the van and the engine died, it just woudn't run. closer examination showed that during the fitting of the battery they had broken a fuel pipe. My German companion produced his water hose and we cut of a short bit of that and it was a perfect repair and off we set.

More soon. Lots of nice thoughts of you all.

NB some emails to us have disappeared. We try to reply to everyone so if you dont get a reply  do please write again.