These are the penguins pictures that ping lost   $17 per picture!!!!!!

After the Penguins but still moving north towards Porvenir where we were to take a Ferry to Punte Arenas.........

Porvenir is another interesting town that appears to have fallen on hard times lots of derelict buildings  and  several businesses burnt out, but still the  town retains a quite distinct charm. Interestingly, I chanced upon a derelict building that turned out to be the very first cinema in Tierra Del fuego.

The very first cinema in Tierra Del fuego

We found nowhere to spend the night while we waited for the ferry the next day. Actually we missed the ferry the previous day because of those bloody penguins! We stayed at the ferry port where we were joined by a couple of other overlanders and we had the place to ourselves.

In the morning, we needed to fill up with water there was no obvious place to get it until Ping batted her eyelids at the sailors in a nearby post of the Chilean Armada, they were instructed by their officer to fill our tank. So, under the close supervision of Ping, they brought out a hose and filled our tank.

The crossing was fairly uneventful though it felt quite a privilege doing something as exotic as crossing the Magallan strait and we landed in Punte Arenas. This town and area is quite dominated by servicing the arctic shipping and the towns skyline is dominated by towering ships in dry dock for repair.

We found the most extraordinary place to stay. On the face of it appeared to be some kind of truck stop. It was a ramshackle kind of place that did not really standout in any way but we found that they had a campsite with water and electricity all the firewood we could use  and a shop, but what a shop! 

As we entered to arrange our camping we found a huge barn of a place in which was nothing less than a supermarket. It was a real shock, as this was not where you expected to find it. Not only that but about a 3^rd of this vast emporium was given over to the most amazing and random selection of hardware I had ever seen. I immediately wanted to stay here for ever, all scattered around and mostly covered in dust,  was all manner of treasure. 

There was camping gear and safety helmets,  there was a shelf given over solely to a stock of the inside bit of safety helmets there were axes, heavy chains, nails screws and mosquito spray there was barbecue sets and pickaxe handles.  My favourite bit was the shelf containing a row of small drawers containing grease nipples, screws, birthday candles, bolts fuses , nail clippers lighters and several drawers of dice. Nearby was a manicure set next to a steering wheel lock.

There was a large number of heavy duty dog collars! Believe me when I tell you; you do not want to meet the dog that needed one of these collars.

Sometime we go and visit some historic attraction and find it overated or disappointing. It can also leave you with a sense of being robbed (I am still dwelling on the penguin experience).

In Puerte Arenas There are a group of replicas of historic ships so important in the history of the world.

A reconstruction of Magallans ship Nao Victoria built from original drawings and with an English commentary  this was a really enlightening experience.

Also there was an almost complete reconstruction of HMS Beagle. Which of course was a vital exploration vessel but which had, as a geologist on board, Charles Darwin.

The high spot for me was the smallest. this was a reconstruction of the lifeboat  James Caird which Ernest Shackleton used in his unbelievable and successful rescue of his stranded crew during his Arctic expedition when his ship was crushed in the closing ice at Elephant Island. His crew survived but much of their lifeboats and equipment was destroyed.

Shackletons incredible boat with a toe curling story!

Shackleton took a surviving boat and set off for South Georgia amid astonishing feats of true grit and bravery he and a small crew made a successful rescue. Next to this boat is a panel with a detailed account of the whole story. It took half an hour to read and made an unbelievable tale of honour, tenacity and bravery. Really hair raising stuff.

We met up with several other travellers whose company we really enjoyed and saw in the New year.

looking out from the end of America

 On new year’s day we did one more extreme limit in the world We travelled about 50km South of Punte Arenas to Fuerte Bulmer, an old fort which is quite important in Chilean history. It is sited in a park which also celebrates its location at the southernmost tip of the American continent.

This park also celebrates the role of this area in the history of navigating the world.

Fort Bulmer

It was an unusually beautiful location it was a lovely sunny New Year’s Day as we stood on the shore at the very southern tip of America looking out over the Magallan Strait . A thoroughly enjoyable moment.

This is the Southernmost point of the American Continent on New Years Day.  Beautiful and memorable.

We are now in Puerto Natales. Tomorrow we are off to the Tories del Paine National Park which has some famous mountain scenery and glaciers etc We have been warned that the number of tourists is quite off putting as people flock in for the special treks and climbs to be had there. More to follow.